favorites of lately: april 2015

bacon donut

5. bacon donuts: a classic cruller will make me coo, but a fresh morning pastry taken to the hedonistic extremes as offered by Great Maple will turn me into a growling, ravenous brunch monster.

ottolenghi

4. roasted rainbow carrots: Ottolenghi, a London-based Israeli chef, details beautifully photographed vegetarian dishes in his Plenty and Plenty More cookbooks. carrots have never tasted so boss.

carbonara

3. carbonara: the Italian rendition of breakfast for dinner.

a delicious attempt at anchovy butter salmon.

a delicious attempt at anchovy butter salmon.

2. Melissa Clark video channel: every video is made to look like a simple three minute endeavor, inspiring back-to-back midnight snacks after a long night at work. The messy range of results never surpass the threshold of beauty worth sharing on instagram, but will do just fine tucked away here.

hammonds

1. Hammond’s ice cream shop: helping san diegans achieve instant happiness with self-tailored ice cream flights. many classics exist amongst the Hawaiian-themed flavors, but all of them are worth a gamble when perched atop a mini cone. if the extreme cuteness of these waffle cones doesn’t inspire exclamations and high pitch noises, you’re probably dead inside.

BONUS

wine favorite: Saint Cosme – Condrieu 2012 a stunning showcasing of Viognier in its classic form with rich aromatics of peach blossoms and honeyed apricots to contrast the bright mineral core. so pretty it makes me want to die.

Great Maple breakfast pizza

pizza favorite: Great Maple made a champion out of their bacon donuts, but their breakfast pizza is just as decadent with prosciutto, runny eggs, and truffle oil. 

favorites of lately: march 2015

march soup 2

5. soup: despite the warmer days, soup is what i seek. the old lady that lives within me is thrilled thrilled thrilled.

Pinot Noir  by Tyler Feder of roaringsoftly.com

image by Tyler Feder of roaringsoftly.com

4. roaringsoftly.com: whenever i’m feeling glum, i just take a digital stroll through this happy land.

march egg game

3. working on my egg game: scrambled, poached, soft-boiled, omelette, all forms of egg. i want to make it all.

march addison

2. Addison: finally had a chance to sit down here. an incredible lineup of food. on par with the best in the country.

march sysk

image credit (top and bottom left): Stuff You Should Know podcast

1. SYSK: what better way to enjoy something free and easily-accessible in audio-format than trek 150 miles to pay to watch a live recording. i love these fellas and all the brainy stuff they’ve shoved into my head over the years.

BONUS pizza & wine favorites: born of the same evening this month. Pizza Nova signature pie was a killer find, especially paired with 2013 Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre, a Loire Valley sauvignon blanc that makes me purr.

diversification announcement

dearest cats and kittens,
taking a cue from america and any decent financial portfolio, i’ve decided to diversify. each week, we’ll tackle one of the following four themes:

TEST KITCHEN – tinkering around with pizza-related recipes. wine to pair with whatever mess is born from the oven.

FANCY PANTS – fancy wines meet fancy toppings. you heard me.

FAVORITES OF LATELY – a public reflection of recent obsessions, both edible and not. bonus pizza & wine favorites to not lose sight of our roots.

SWEATPANTS & NETFLIX – same as it ever was: pizza takeout with wine to pair. it’s why couches evolved.

tune in on sundays to venture along.

pizza cat bed

Blind Lady Ale House & Aglianico

On the northern end of the 30th Street beer crawl lineup sits Blind Lady Ale House where pizza and brews are served in an indoor beer garden fashion with small jovial crowds lining long tables. Beer is the ultimate fail-safe pizza pairing, making this environment perfect for fostering a pizza eating culture. With Kimmy Schmidt waiting to entertain my pizza-eating face, I opt out of beer and slink back to my Netflix cave, a Spicy Salami pie in hand, to find a wine to pair.

kimmy schmidt

The pizza is a simple but aromatic wonderland topped with Balistreri salami, fontina and pecorino romano cheeses, and a light tomato sauce. Leading the topping parade, the salami is crafted by San Diego native Pete Balistreri, a Sicilian-American quick to gain a following for his recent venture in artisanal charcuterie. Dense with savory elements, the salami contributes the bulk of the seasoning with classic flavors of chili flakes and fennel.

blind lady from above

The main source of spice comes from the side of calabrese chili oil, which allows for adjustment according to personal preference. The chili oil offers mild peppery heat and a satisfyingly slick texture, finding a comfortable home amongst the salty toppings and juicy tomato sauce. If hotter, the spice would threaten to zap a wine’s more delicate fruit aromas, making a sweeter or less alcoholic pairing more appropriate. Bold, inky and certainly no pushover, wine made from the thick-skinned Aglianico are weighty and capable handling a livelier set of flavors. The red Italian varietal makes the whole of this pizza’s pairing, 2008 Terredora di Paolo, Taurasi DOCG, Fatica Contadina.

blind lady tryptich

Smooth, finely-grained tannins enrich the wine’s already full body, allowing the wine to match each bite in personality and gumption. The moderately high acidity keeps the oil and cheese from overpowering the palate while aromas of blackberry, plum skin, fresh leather and tar provide a layer of contrasting flavors and complexity. Overshadowed by more northern Italian players of Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, southern Italy’s Aglianico remains under-appreciated despite its ability to thrive in warmer climates while maintaining a robust yet balanced wine. It is a feisty selection to keep around home, well-suited to pair with rich Italian dishes and hilarious Tina Fey productions.

references:

Guild of Sommeliers Compendium

Daring Pairings by Evan Goldstein

favorites of lately: NYC edition

nyc nomad cocktails5. cocktails at NoMad: the only place we returned for a second visit during our romp about New York City. each room had a new vibe and every cocktail thrilled in its own way.

nyc maison premiere

4. Maison Premiere: dollar oysters, Muscadet and hot buttered rum.

nyc booker and dax

3. Booker & Dax: the focal point of the entire cocktail tour. did it live up to the hype we’ve basted it in all these years? sure did. the drinks were unreal good and the bartender incredibly knowledgable, humble and welcoming.

nyc brooklyn fare 2

2. Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare: the only three-star Michelin restaurant in Brooklyn. with zero pictures and only memories to look back on, what shines brightest are the first six courses, making up our favorite best bites of Japanese-style cuisine ever.

nyc emp 4

1. Eleven Madison Park: surprise: the top two favorites taken from New York are both sporting three Michelin stars. this one was truly memorable as an overall experience. we had many doubts about the reservations, spanning everything from receiving a lunchtime B-team to watching a restaurant flail as it desperately clings to many years of hype to being overexposure to rich tasting menus every day previous that we would be numb to their offerings. nope. it was incredible. arguably the best meal I’ve ever had.

special mentions:

Clover Club: as our first cocktail stop upon entering NYC, Clover Club set us up mentally for our new scene. the welcoming service found here proved to be the most incredible aspect of New York bar culture. they provided a killer introduction to the city, demonstrating what gracious hosts New York bartenders are.

Arturo’s: our favorite pizza out of the handful we tried.

Paper Plane cocktail: the best we’ve ever had and made by its inventor, one jovial Sam Ross, at our last cocktail bar stop, Attaboy. no better way to cheers goodbye to this amazing city.

favorites of lately: Boston edition

boston wasabi lox

photo credit: Au Bon Pain website

5. Au Bon Pain wasabi & lox bagel: nostalgia trump card in play here. this four dollar luxury was the lunch break bagel of my early 20s that forever turned the smoked salmon switch on.

@whitneycummings: “The way you pronounce Au Bon Pain tells me everything I need to know about you”

boston clam chowder

4. Legal Sea Foods clam chowder: a regional chain is still a chain but we go weak in the knees over this chowder, even when served at 6am at the airport.

boston kimpton

3. Kimpton Hotels: after letting us check in obnoxiously early when it was -30 degrees outside, we pledged allegiance by signing up for their rewards program. (yaaay points). each hotel has personality without being diligently overdone with hipster sensibility. looking at you, Ace Hotels.

boston neptune oyster

2. Neptune Oyster lobster roll: been chasing this dream for years. we practically built our trip around this sandwich and it would have made it to number one had there not been an incident immediately afterwards.

boston dat ring

1. that ring: seriously, just look at it. eeeeeeeee.

Pizza Nova & Sancerre

Perched overlooking the sleepy harbor of Point Loma, San Diego’s Pizza Nova is a spacious bayside joint cooking up wood-fired pizza amongst other restaurant standards. Aside from the expected basics of pepperoni and margherita, a range of non-traditional pies tempt the more adventurous with toppings not often found on pizza, such as pears, zucchini or thai flavors. Proximity to the sea seems to have had some minor influences on their chosen style as their eponymous signature pie features smoked salmon. Fluffed up with flavors of red onions, caper and goat cheese, the Pizza Nova pie is a tasty departure from loveable classics most swear allegiance to.

pizza nova whole pie

When ordered to-go, the freshly baked pizza kisses salmon with boxed-in heat, cooking in a bit more flaky texture and pink opaqueness. While the salmon brings a sweet smokiness to the overall profile, the capers are bright with ocean-like salinity and the goat cheese peps up each bite with a hit of grassy tang. The oily presence of fontina and mozzarella cheeses wants for a super palate cleanser of acidity while the most prominent flavor of salty brininess calls for something light and mineral-driven.

We return to the Loire Valley where Sancerre grows Sauvignon Blanc from a limestone-rich soil littered with fossilized seashells and capable of fostering a chalky minerality in these vibrant wines. Quintessential Sancerre is unoaked and bone dry with aromatics encompassing a broad spectrum, from green bell pepper to wet rocks to gooseberries. The 2013 Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre is a clean, straightforward style with flavors of citrus blossom, tart lemon and grapefruit as well as contrasting tropical fruit aromas that are especially loud and lush when juxtaposed with the savory pizza elements. Enhanced with aromas of garlic and red onion, the sharp flavors on the pizza soften the edges on this piercing style of Sauvignon Blanc, balancing each other in turn.

pizza nova sancerre and salmon

One ingredient here truly secures this pairing: goat cheese. Sancerre and chèvre are a classic “grows together, goes together” combination, adhering to a culinary philosophy that resonates throughout cultures worldwide. While terroir may be an influential factor, the main driving force behind so many of these “perfect” pairings is more likely a matter of time and space. When food and wine find themselves at the dinner table again and again, regional preferences drive the two beyond mere coexistence into a balanced dynamic reinforced by generations of tradition. Since this culinary symbiosis requires ample time for coevolution, most examples of the phenomenon unsurprisingly emerge from the Old World, encompassing classics such as Muscadet and oysters or Nebbiolo and truffles. The many traditions are worth exploration and thoughtful engagement, but they should be considered handy tools rather than governing guidelines. Otherwise this whole business of pairing food and wine would prove way less fun.

Landini’s Pizzeria & Spanish red

The recent boom of trendy bars and restaurants in San Diego’s Little Italy has been all the chatter about town. From the killer wine list at Juniper & Ivy to the shiny upstairs patio of Kettner Exchange, there is plenty to talk about and more foodie fodder still to come. While old neighborhood standards may harrumph about with speculation as to what the competition means for business, the influx of roaming drunk hoards seems well-suited for a pizza joint to thrive in and Landini’s Pizzeria is situated within easy stumbling distance of it all.

San Diego kitchens shut down disappointingly early for a city that parties nightly until two. As bars unleash batches of wooing hot messes and their socially oblivious companions into the streets, Landini’s becomes a magnet for inebriated pizza zombies drawn to the ever-appreciated business model of late-night slices.

Initially enticed by the menu’s fancy sounding toppings of brussel sprouts and butternut squash, I opt for a less cerebral treat after standing in line between drunk toddlers in celebratory feather boas indicating some holiday nigh. Instead, the very chill people of Landini’s recommend a standard issue pepperoni pie, to which I add tomato and mushroom to half and contribute what I can to send some cat to ninja school.

landini's pizzeria

The toppings don’t seem to matter beyond pepperoni as the base components make up the whole of the pizza’s personality. A soft core that runs from crust to cheese is enlivened with collected pockets of juicy tomato sauce and a chewy texture. While the tomato and mushroom are decorative at best, contributing nothing much beyond texture to the pie, the pepperoni is spiced perfectly, calling for a bigger style of red wine to be its match.

landini's pizza and wine 3

Bodega Margon Pricum (Tierra de León, 2007) is a Spanish red made up solely from the Prieto Picudo red grape of the region. Upon opening, the wine is immediately taut, tannins strained and fruit ungiving, and in need of time to breathe. Decanting is an option, offering more surface area for oxygen to interact with the wine and hasten its evolution, while swirling in glass offers smaller format aeration for those seeking to enjoy a glass or two.

As the wine opens up, aromas of black tea, pepper, and dusty earth are at first most notable. Dark fruit flavors emerge in the form of black cherry and blackberries that provide a counterbalance to the meaty landscape of the pizza and inherent spice never overwhelms the wine. With plumply ripe fruit aromas and moderately higher alcohol, there is just enough acidity to match the tomato sauce while the scrubby tannins play nicely off each cheesy bite.

landini's leftovers

Leftovers are an undeniable truth of pizza eating for one. To step up my pizza game, I ditched the microwave and learned a stovetop method for reheating pizza that revives any lifeless crust on the fly. All it takes is a pan prepped to low-medium heat with slices placed in dry for a crisp bottom while covering with a lid to heat the toppings evenly. Serve with eggs and call it breakfast.

favorites of lately: february 2015

feb kex brunch compilation

5. Kettner Exchange brunch: mezcal bloodies & a killer menu. the burger is a must.

feb truffle trouble

4. black truffles: splurged on a small jar of black truffles to see what kind of culinary trouble i could get into. the big winner of the bunch: a luxurious monte cristo truffle grilled cheese made on a whim.

feb pine nuts

3. pine nuts: on par with saffron in terms of ingredient expense and payoff. that sweet nutty rush is worth the chase. believe.

feb drink and tell

2. Drink & Tell online hangouts: reviving the tradition of day drinking amongst a group of Boston friends via vid-chat. to mend the distance between us all now scattered across the states, we pick a bar featured in the book, Drink & Tell, a compilation of Boston cocktails curated by Frederick Yarm of cocktail virgin slut, and catch up over the drinks from our old hangouts.

feb coravin

1. coravin: a worthwhile investment that allows me to “open” up an obnoxious amount of wine to find the right pairing or see how a bottle is drinking. geeking out has its price.

special mention:

*new york city: omgatitos, that city is incredible. more details to follow in the special editions of favorites of lately featuring Boston and NYC.

favorites of lately: january 2015

january antique row cafe5. antique row cafe: people pile onto the wait list here every damned weekend, swarming the sidewalk corner for what looks to be some humdrum diner. inside a greasy spoon dreamscape awaits, ready with the turn-and-burn attitude that provides constant (but never annoying) attention and coffee galore, including flavored options of vanilla and hazelnut. like i said: dreamscape. their menu spans the usual brunch and classic diner expectations, but the specials keep the real goodies with combinations like chocolate chip waffles & new york steak. as its name indicates, everything within is born from antiquity, from framed photos of kennedy to a well-stocked pie display case. it is a world removed from this city, better suited to collect road trip travelers off highway exits than be a brunch destination in sun-spoiled San Diego, but so it is and that’s plenty okay.

january ramen

4. ramen: personal ramen consumption is at an all-time high, but favorites have yet to be established.

january escargot

3. escargot & red burg combo: 3rd corner has really stepped up their escargot game with a new in-shell set and fancy clamps to go with the classic French preparation of garlic and herbs. red burgundy and extra baguette required.

january playing host

2. playing host: whether coursed with pairings or family-style dim sum, there is no better way to kick yourself for fucking up a dish than doing it in front of friends.

january pretzel rolls

1. roast beef & cheddar pretzel rolls: these little beauties cast a dizzy love spell on me for two nights. built with a simple spread of mustard and horseradish mayonnaise, this midnight snack had me taking selfies with it, just for the memories. again, red burgundy required.

special mention:

red burgundy: just beginning to fall down the rabbit hole.